VAREIA, VOLUME AND ELEGANCE IN LA RIOJA:

Volume and elegance in Rioja by Ramon Francàs. In 1950, a 1.8-hectare vineyard plot called Vareia near the González Byass Beronia winery in Ollauri (Rioja Alta), which is celebrating its 50^th anniversary this year, was planted with tempranillo grapes, with little pockets of white varieties. The wine is a pretty colour between ruby red and picota cherry red, of medium-high intensity, with tears that are sightly pigmented and some visible tartrates (crystallisations) and coloured matter. A distinctly floral wine (violets and young peonies over a rose-scented talcum powder background), it also displays notes of vanilla, black and red berries, and a touch of graphite and liquorice. Measured ageing in barrel translates into well-integrated wood, whilst the wine’s 14.5º abv does not detract from its elegance. The finish is fresh with a tinge of menthol that makes it interesting. Beronia claims that the wine is full-bodied and well-structured yet balanced too. It would however benefit from a little more time in bottle. The winery states that it is a Rioja Viñedo Singular made from 100% tempranillo grapes, a wine that “will be remembered, will astonish and is for sharing with friends”. Price: 69.95 euros.